Below is a brief outline of the kind of information we can provide for a client, for use as a basis for further research.
Case Study:
Analysis of Medieval (13th-14th Century) Egyptian Child’s Cap
The aims of the project, done for Leeds University, were to identify the methods of construction, evaluate the best conservation treatment for its long-term protection and to enhance the general level of knowledge about Egyptian children’s clothing at this time in history.
Initial investigation, using a powerful Optical Microscope (x10), revealed that the cap was made from four fabric layers and that, beneath the outer silk fabric, was an interlining with script written on it.
The cap had been squashed flat over the years
Optical Microscope (x10)
Interlining with script written on it
At greater magnification, the Optical Microscope identified individual stitches and fractures in the outer, striped fabric which had been caused by the visible, ingrained soiling. Fabrics and weave structures were identified.
A third layer of wadding came before the inner lining fabric
Individual stitches and fractures were identified
Insect damage was identified...
… and the actual shed, outer skins of the larvae were removed!
Scanning Electron Microscope images now identified surface wear, the depth of ingrained soiling, how this damaged the fibres through making them brittle (thus weakening the fabric) and pointed to potential risks for future treatment / storage / display.
x40 magnification
x80 magnification
The second (paper) layer was identified as being made from cotton fibres. The third layer fabric layer comprised of cotton fibres rolled to form ‘sausage’ shapes for wadding. The flattened fibres with hollow tubular centres indicates them as being cotton.
Second (paper) layer at x30 magnification. Cotton fibres and soiling.
Third layer at x800 magnification. Fibres identified as cotton.
Surface soiling was analysed by X-Ray Diffraction.
Surface soiling was removed and collected for analysis
Analysis by X-Ray Diffraction
Analysis undertaken to determine the dye using a centrifuge...
...and a UV-Visible Spectrophotometer. The dye used was identified as indigo.
Findings
- Method of Construction
- The cap consisted of four layers: silk, striped woven outer; paper interlining; rolled, cotton waddings; and linen lining.
- Stitching threads were silk, with blanket and narrow slip stitching along the seams / turnings. The quilting was created with a running stitch worked in two directions.
- The quilting was made of rolled cotton fibres to form narrow ‘sausage’ shapes.
- Fabrics used were plain woven and striped woven. The stripes were formed in warps, not wefts (seam selvedge identified).
- Factors for Long-Term Conservation
- The cap is extremely fragile. As handling should be avoided, a soft, wadded, protective support is required for storage and possible future display.
- The Optical and SEM images will assist a conservator in choosing the best method of cleaning, if any.
- Enhancing Knowledge
- The analysis has enhanced our knowledge of the technology of fabrics available and in use for clothing at that time.
